I'm putting more of a focus on recording my restorations for Youtube. In this video, I work on an unmarked Dayton that I did a lot of grinding to. Currently, I haven't seen any laminated palm swell tutorials so I plan on making one of those soon enough.
I recently started using poplar for wedges because it compresses way better then black walnut. Without glue, walnut will slide right out of the kerf and I wanted to stop using glue so I could pull wedges when I needed to. When driving in my second poplar wedge, I underestimated it's superiority over what I was used to, and the front of the tongue cracked. From here on out, I'll remember to thin the front of the wedge to account for how much force poplar will apply to hickory. I decided to flush cut it which I'm not esthetically a fan of so I thought I'd do some experimenting with this axe since it's unmarked anyways. I did alot of grinding with my angle grinder, bringing in the centerline, making the bevels more hollow, and cleaning up the poll. Afterwards I used my new orbital sander which gave it a nice look. I still need to file the axe because I didn't want to get to close to the edge with my angle grinder. I'll be giving it a 17 degree banana grind, then thinning the handle, and this thing will chop great after all that. This experiment has taught me to not be worried about trying new ideas and mods because I just took my time and it turned out great (and 1000x easier then sharpening a saw). I'll be listing more axes to Etsy now that I'm back to work, so dm me or click the link in bio if you'd like a restored tool.
Rinaldi axe sheath I made as a commission order. I made it with a snap so the head can be stored without the handle since it's a tomahawk style axe. Also, I had the axe in person so I could custom fit it so the sheath is super tight.
I just finished making this axe sheath, I'm using a new style of buckle that I really like.
17-year-old Restorer of Axes and Crosscut Saws with Leatherwork.
